I pushed a cart loaded with bottled water along an
aisle in the small grocery store. Stopping, I reached toward a shelf of candles
when the store suddenly went dark!
Welcome to Ely, Minnesota and the aftermath of the area’s
infamous 1999 “incident”.

We’d traveled to northern Minnesota to spend close
to a week in a quiet bed and breakfast on Farm Lake at the edge of the Boundary
Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW), a few miles outside of Ely.
We first stopped at Piragis, an outfitter in town
where we’d reserved two canoes for the week’s stay.
It looked like rain as we picked up our canoes and
strapped them to the top of our SUV for the short drive to the Blue Heron Bed
& Breakfast.
We took off from Piragis and quickly found ourselves
in the middle of a raging rainstorm, accompanied by straight line winds that
threatened to blow our rented boats away into the wilderness!
The boats seemed to pull in every direction. Tim
stopped and hopped out of our Mountaineer to make sure the boats were secure,
and got completely drenched in less than a few minutes outside of the car.
The storm seemed pretty much over by the time we
reached our B&B.

The B&B owner rejoiced when she saw us make it
up her long driveway because that meant she wouldn’t have to get her chain saw
out to clear the drive of fallen trees that night.
By the time we’d unloaded the boats and visited the
grocery store in town, our B&B lost power. The candles and bottled water we
purchased came in handy until the B&B's power came back on the next day.
The rest of our trip turned out relaxing and
relatively unaffected by the storm’s effects.
Other Ely residents and visitors weren’t so
fortunate.
The infamous Fourth of July Blowdown in 1999 fell 600 square miles of forest and caused millions of dollars of in damage in northern Minnesota
alone.
The storm, also known as the Boundary
Waters-Canadian Derecho, lasted 22 hours and roiled over 1,300 miles. Records
show that any other storm going back to the early 18th century paled
in comparison with the Fourth of July Blowdown in terms of size and force. More
than 40 percent of the total BWCAW felt the storm’s effects, with some areas
losing every mature tree to the winds that reached as much as 80 to 100 miles
per hour.

We heard stories throughout the week of our visit
about groups of chain-saw wielding neighbors and volunteers clearing not only
driveways, but paths to canoeists stranded (and some even injured) deep in the
wilderness and unable to paddle or portage out.
Some area residents and businesses waited several
days for power to come back on.
I remember eating at a nearby restaurant where staff
improvised with a few generator-powered appliances and grills to feed hungry
guests, while other guests at a nearby resort “roughed it” by convincing their
hosts to let them plug their blenders into a generator long enough to mix a few
batches of margaritas!

The day after the storm, a morning mist floated over
glass-like Farm Lake as we launched our canoes past the wild rice near the
shore for a quiet paddle.
I snapped a few photos of the destruction we saw
throughout our visit, with fields of towering trees snapped off like
matchsticks about 15 feet high and crews working to clear fallen timber from
the roads.
Short as the storm seemed to us at the time, the
aftermath of the 1999 Blowdown created long-lasting and detrimental effects on
the area’s environment. Scientists, naturalists and other researchers continue
to debate those effects today as the event’s tenth anniversary approaches.
Changes in the environment resulted in an especially
increased risk for wildfires. One notable event occurred in July of 2006, when
a lightning strike resulted in a wildfire burning 367,000 acres of the 1999
Blowdown area—or 3 percent of the total 1.1 million acres of BWCAW.
We wondered about the area’s recovery from the storm
and planned a visit to Ely this summer. Unfortunately, the personal economic
storm we’re weathering changed our plans.
We hope to visit Ely in the next couple of years.
Meanwhile, we continue to wonder how the forests so
badly damaged then appear now and wish the best for the residents of the area
as they continue to address the concerns caused by “the incident”.
© Dominique King 2009 All rights reserved



